September 29, 2013

New Look 6095

Back to the drawing board.  I spent a good part of Sunday working on New Look 6095.  I have long wanted a proper sheath dress.  Not one with princess seams, but a dress that fits and hangs from the shoulders.  Very similar to what Carolyn builds most of her 'inspired by dresses' from. 

Today, I traced New Look 6095.  It's a very simple sheath dress with fish eye darts in the back and an angled bust dart in the front.  Nothing else. 

I traced a 16 from the shoulders through the bust, 18 at the waist and essentially a 24 at the hips.  Oh, and I tried something new while tracing - I marked the size I wanted to use and then pivoted it to the size 16 and drew the line in.  This kept the curves smooth between the sizes.

Then I grabbed a brushed cotton print.  It's black and grey on a yellow background.  When I started - I sorta didn't care if it fit or not.  But I really like the print.  I also made the cap sleeve more of a short sleeve. 

I sewed the darts in, put the zipper in the back - but left those darts out, sewed the shoulder seams, set in the sleeves.  The sleeves have a bit too much length, causing some fullness in the cap.  And then I basted the side seams. 

The front looks good - the bust darts are in the right place, the waist is in the right place, but as I tend to do - the hips are too low and there is too much fabric - jodhpur hips.  The back however is a hot mess. 

I've bought The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting to see if I can figure it out.  I have enough fabric left recut the back and the sleeves.  But of course I serged the raw edges as I was putting it together. 

Hopefully this book will help and I can figure it out.  Next time - I'll use real muslin.  Although it does get frustrating to spend what little time I have at the sewing machine working on garments that will never see the light of day.  

September 23, 2013

2 New-ish Pieces


So - the quest for the perfect pencil skirt continues.  Inspired by a very cute girl in the tax department (um, yea for those that don't know - I no longer work with attorneys, I now work with accountants!) who have the cutest pencil skirts on the plant that she buys at Macy's.  Since I bought a new interview outfit, I haven't bought a thing at Macy's and I don't plan to start.


Sorry - off track, inspired by Cute Skirt Girl - I bought some zig zag printed cotton and pulled out Simplicity 2154 again.  I spent a fair amount of time matching the print at the size seams and the center back seam and even managed to keep it lined up over the zipper.  Not that you can see it, but there is a button and button loop on the waistband.  ( sorry for the wrinkles - end of the day)


I see from these photos that I really do need to work on my posture - but how do you change almost 48 years of bad posture?  You know - because I probably wasn't standing before 2 at least not regularly.  And why in the world doesn't JB tell me stand up or pull my tummy in?  Men!

The first work day of Fall was blustery and I wore nylons and boots today.  I think I need some light tan boots - Chan, will you be my personal shopper? 

The top is Renfrew made from a purchased knit yardage.  Funny thing is - everyone who sees it thinks that I knit the top.  I did make the top - but I did not knit it.  I left the arm and waist bands off. 


I want to ask you, do you think this skirt is too big?  I felt a bit frumpy in it and I'm not sure why.  I've worn the entire outfit together before - with the same chocolate brown tank under the sweater.  But today something was off and I'm not sure what.  I don't want to wear skin tight clothes that show all the lumps and bumps - but I do want them to flatter - not to make me look heavier.  Ideas?  Suggestions?

September 9, 2013

Lady Skater

I finally hopped on the PDF pattern bandwagon and bought the Lady Skater Pattern.  I will admit to
having a hard time getting the pattern lines to line up when taping the pattern together.  If you follow me on instagram you saw.  I just smoothed those lines out when tracing the pattern.

I made my 'normal' adjustments when tracing the pattern.  For me that includes taking about 2.5" out of the back waist length.  I also ended up taking .75" out of the front waist and depending on the fabric, I could actually take a bit more out.  I added 4" to the skirt when I traced it and then added another 2" when cutting this fabric. 

The fabric is an ITY Knit that I bought from Fabric.com sometime in the last couple of years.  It is a pink and brown print and I had 3 yards, which was enough to make me this dress and make a magic pencil skirt for The Princess. 

I had to throw a temper tantrum to get The Musical One to mark the hem on this dress and then it took me a week to get it sewn.  Sparking the coverstitch question.  I think the hem is a bit high - you know, because I have old lady knees, but the dress is so much fun to wear that I wasn't worried that my knees were showing all day!  Oh - and if you notice I'm wearing heels in the pics?  Yea - I've been going to massage and I'm up to wearing short heels half a day!  Yea!!!

There's really not a lot to say about this dress it's a quick, easy sew that is flattering on everyone I've seen.  If you haven't made one yet - you need to try it!


September 1, 2013

To Coverstitch or Not?

I've been sewing more knits lately and I'd like to improve my finishing.  I'm trying to decide if I want to take the plunge and buy a dedicated coverstitch machine.
 
  
So - talk to me.  Do you think it's worth it?  Has it improved your sewing?  Do your knits look more like Ready to Wear?  And do you use it? 
 
The one thing I don't want to do is purchase a new machine and not use it. 
 
One of the things that concerns me is that I have a serger that will do a coverstitch and I rarely convert it and use the coverstitch.  Mostly because when I want to use it - I'm constructing a garment using the serger and need to coverstitch between serging a seam.
 
For those of you who don't know what the coverstitch is or does - it's the seam you see hemming 90% of all commercial knits.  Here is a good example of what the coverstitch is, does and uses.

So - talk to me, please. 
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